Manufacture of shoes



Dec. 18,1928. 1,695,331

J. B. HADAWAY MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed March 22, 1924 Patented Dec. 18, 1928.

UNITED STATES;

PAT EN JOHN B HADAWAY, OF SWAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORTO UNITED SHOE MncnmnnY NEW JERSEY.

CORPORATION, or rarn'nson, NEW JERSEY, A conronn'rron or MANUFACTURE or snons.

Application filed March 22, 1924. Serial No. 701,221,

This; invention relates to improvements in shoes and parts thereof.

In the manufacture of welt shoes aninnersole provided. with a sewing lipor rib, about its forepart; and shank is secured to, a. last upon which the upper lSfi-SSG llblQCl and over whichit is. lasted, The upper and, a welt are then sewed.- to the rib or lip of the innersoleby an inseaming, operation. The, inseam extends at each sideiof the shoe a short distance stiffener, isplaced between the end portions of the inseam with. its rear; ends in prox mity,

to the breast line. The forepartand. shanl; of the shoe. are then filled, Thisfilling, however, should notextend beyond thebreast line,

because theheel-seatportion of the shoe bottom upon. which the rear end of the, outsole rests requires no filling, and the presence of filling. at the front part of the heeLseat, where the ends of the inseam, and shank piece. are;

located, would bring the front portion. of the heelrseat portion of the out-sole, when laid over it, above the planeof the rest of the heel; seat and cause the front end of theheel, when attached, to be raised out of its normal po; sition. In. fact, the end portions, of the 119,- seam and the rear end of the. shank stilfener, even in the absence of filling. material, bear. on localized areas ofi-the. outsole wh n, it is ap; plied and prevent the. breast. end Of; the heelseat portion-of the ontsole from being brought into proper contact with the surface of the innersole, with the result that when theuout-i sole is forced down upon the ends of the-in; seam and the unfilled: space. between them it is bent into an irregular curve transversely of the shoe along the breast line, so. that when-the heel is att-achedand breasted the breasting knife does not have an evenly transversely curved surface, to which to. cut, With-the result that the breast-ingis diflicult and the appear; ance of theshoe is liable tobe, adversely fected by reason'of the uneven contourofthe sole near the breast line.

In view of these conditions, an object of i t outset-e PJFQPW, C an,

this inyention is to provide a shoe which will not only havethe breast portion of its heelseat in the same plane as the reinainder of, the

heel-seat, but will also have an evenly transversely curved portion ad acent tothe breast i I l line to facilitate the breasting operation, and I enhance the appearance of the portion of the shoe ad acent to the heel-seat.

A feature of the. invention consists ina shoe construction by which localized pres.-

sure between the. outsole projecting. poi;- tions ofthe shoe bottom adjacent to the breast line. is relieved. As shown, the outsolefis thinned or recessed adjacent t,o,the line; of, theheel, the thinning orfreeessing beiiii laterally spaced; to correspondfto' the.distanee etw en the nds i e fi' l agn fifthe slits Whl h tist be p i d, se at Wli t solf is laid upon the shoe the localized pressure of theendsof the insean will be relifiyfi l zi d the heel-seatportioh, of: thefoutsole, my be en: a d pont eshpebe tia d s e-a 1111i!- form transverse curvature the reception of the front portion, ofthe, hee

a et e. teatureb't h iw shoe qnatws i nbaw cle press be: W69 he outsole. en f he f ell b x t shank piece is relieved. Ass h wn, thesole 9a se se-tea thinned at the portion which coversi l herear end of the en anged, pyerera i y maknc-a eas ts n e t m t is r essbine somewhat wider and. shallower tlllnfthe it; cesses which ac co nn iodate 'the, ears of the inseam. The requislte thinning ay. be'prod y a .ipl uiaili yoli e s e as al illustrated; thereina y be a'singiqgeeesg' H l and shape ce v bet thi w de of th a rear end of t e. shank piece this forin the, ontsole is, in shoes haying "where the spaces betwew the .s h anlg the iii seam are narrow.

These and otherfeat ures of the invention be readily understoold froni the following description when read,incci iinection with the accompanying drawing and ,will ppm doe e -ramb dwas In the drawing, I Fig. lie a perspective View showing the in;

so. er face of an. outsole nade naccordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a similar view of an outsole my fi d.

particularly. adapted for? use I bodying the invention in a different form, and

Fig. 3 is a perspective view, partly in section, of the heel end of a shoe with an outsole embodying the invention applied thereto;

In Fig. 1 a block sole A is represented as having its shank portion reduced at B, B, the reductions extending on the inner or flesh side of the sole along the margins of the shank from the ball line to the breast line D-D. A machine for reducing shanks in this manner is disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,382,689, granted June 28, 1921, on appli cation of IV. C. Stewart. Although the shank reductions form no part of the present invention, they have been shown and the machine for producing them referred to for a reason which will later appear.

In accordance with the present invention, thinned areas or recesses T2, 2 are formed on the inner face of the outsole to receive the ends of the inseam when the sole is applied to r the shoe. These recesses therefore are located with their centers approximately at the breast Located centrally of the sole, with its greater portion forward of the breast line, is a larger and preferably shallower recess 1 to re ceive the rear end 6 of the shank piece.

In Fig. 2 is shown a sole inwhich the recesses 2 and 4 of Fig. 1 are combined or coalescedinto a single recess 8, the side portions of which. accommodate the ends of the inseam and the central and forward portion of. which receives the end ofthe shank piece.

i Fig. 3 illustrates the outsole A applied to a shoe with the ends 10, 10 of the inseam lying in the recesses 2, 2 and the end 6 of the shank piece in the recess 1. The outsole is thus permitted to seat firmly against the heel-seat portion of the innersole along the br st line without receiving localized support 1 rom the projecting portions of the shoe bottom such a s the ends of the inseam 10, 10 and the end (3 of the shank piece which would, in the absence of the 'reoesses,cause the outer surface of t outsole transversely thereof along the breast line to assume other than its regular normal curvature.

The recesses or thinned areas of the outsole may be produced in any convenient manner. In practice, however, it has been found advan- 'tageous to employ the machine of the Stewart patent above referred to, which, by'suitable modification of the matrix sleeves of the die roll, is adapted for the manufacture of this sole. As modified, the matrix sleeves of the machine are provided with suitable projections which cause the portions of the sole where the recesses are desired to be push-ed beyond the normal plane of the sole so that the required amount of material will be removed by the skiving knife. In this machine the reductions B, B may be made at the same time or the recesses may be made without reducing the shank, the desired results being .obtained by suitable modification of the matrix sleeves.

- -Although, for the purpose of illustrating the invention, specific forms of recesses have been described, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited thereby, the novelty residing in a shoe construction by which pressure between portions of the shoebottom adjacent to the front portion of the heel-seat is relieved locally, so that the breast end of the heel-seat portion of the outsole will not be raised above the remainder of the heel-seat portion and the outsole will not be distorted in the region of the breast line.

Having described my invention, what I claim new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. Ashoe construction comprising an innersole, an upper attached to the innersole, and an outsole, the outsole being recessed locally adjacent to the breast line to relieve pressure between the outsole and parts of the innersole and upper and to prevent distortion of the outsole at the forward portion of the heel seat.

2. A welt shoe construction, comprising a ribbed innersole, an upper and awelt secured to the rib by an inseam, said inseam extending rearwardly of the breast line of the heel, and an outsole, said outsole being recessed locally to accommodate the ends of the inseam and having an undistortedheelseat portion.

3. A welt shoe construction, comprising a ribbed innersole, an upper and a welt secured to the rib by an inseam, said inseam extending rearwardly of the breast line of the heel, a shank stiifener havingits rear end located adjacent to the breast line, and an outsole, said outsole having its thickness reduced adjacent to the end of the inseam and to their-ear end of the stiffener to relieve pressure of these parts upon the sole, the breast portion of the heel-seatof the sole being consequently undistorted with respect to the remainder of the heel-seat portion of the sole.

4:. An outsole for shoes having its thickness centrally reduced locally" at and adjacent to the breast line only to relieve pressure thereon of projecting portions of the shoe bottom.

5. An outsole for shoes having thinned areas adjacent to the ends of the inseam to relieve pressure of the inseam upon the sole.

6. An outsole for shoes having recesses in its inner face located adjacent to the breast line and spaced laterally of the sole to reseam and the rear end of the shank piece to ceive the ends of the inseam. v prevent distortion ofthe outsole in the region 7. An outsole for shoes having a shallow of the breast line. recess in its inner face to receive and support In testimony whereof I have signed my 5 the rear end only of ashank piece. name to this specification.

8. An outsole for well; shoes recessed in its inner face to relieve pressure on the in- JOHN B. HADAWAY. 

